[ESP/ENG] Pichilemu, la capital del SURF en Chile / Pichilemu, the SURFING capital of Chile
Pichilemu. Un lugar con nombre cómico. Cuando lo escuchas por primera vez piensas: ¿Qué? ¿Cómo has dicho que se llama? La segunda ya te suena y dices: ¡Ay! Si, me han hablado de ese sitio. La tercera intentas decirlo tú, pero no te sale y acabas diciendo algo parecido como Pichumuchi o Puchimiki. Y al final, tras varios intentos el nombre se te queda grabado en la mente. Es entonces cuando piensas, “ ¿cómo no voy a ir a visitar un lugar con un nombre tan apetecible? Es entonces cuando te subes a un autobús que te lleva desde la capital del país y tarda 3 horas y media para plantarte allí, en Pichilemu, región de O’Higgins, Chile.
Lugar de costa, con sol y mucho, mucho viento. Ideal para practicar deportes como el surf, kitesurf, windsurf y todos sus derivados. De hecho toda la ciudad tiene ese estilo hippie-surfero de cabañas, colores pastel y tiendas de marcas como Maoui, Reef, Billabong, Northface, ... Sus alrededores son calles largas y marrones con un aspecto desértico. Miras y ves a través de ese filtro de polvo que está constantemente levantado interponiéndose entre tus ojos y aquello que querías enfocar.
Las playas son espectaculares: Infiernillo, Playa de Lobos, Nilahue, etc. Kilómetros y kilómetros de costa, y con todo ese espacio para elegir, la gente que estaba se concentrada en una pequeña parte. Justo en la zona menos apetecible, donde están los chiringuitos, las tiendas, los caballos para alquilar y un señor paseando una alpaca blanca a la que utiliza como atractivo turístico. Pobres animales que no pueden hablar.
De toda la gente amasada en ese espacio las personas que estaban bañándose se podrían haber contado con los dedos de una mano. ¿Y por qué? Pues porque hay que ser un auténtico valiente. El agua es limpia y turquesa, pero también brava y fría. En pleno verano la temperatura es más baja que la del Cantábrico en febrero. El hecho de que esté tan congelada se debe a las corrientes que vienen del sur, del Antártico así que ese es el estado natural del mar durante todo el año.
A unos 15 kilómetros al sur de Pichilemu, siguiendo la nueva calle Comercio, llegas a Cáhuil. Pueblo de larga avenida, sal y choros zapatos. Allí comienza la Ruta de la Sal. Al llegar al final del caserío empieza la travesía. Son, aproximadamente unos 4 kilómetros de camino llano hasta que comienzas a ver de lejos esos cuadrados rosados con sus montículos blancos. Son como piscinas de agua salada, y cada una está de un color diferente, dependiendo de la fase del proceso en la que esté.
Uno de los dueños de aquellas salinas comentó que esas franjas utilizadas para bloquear el agua y obtener la sal ya estaban allí cuando él nació. Su padre afirmó lo mismo, y su abuelo también. Llegaron a la conclusión de que un profesor de Cádiz les había enseñado aquella técnica, y que, a día de hoy, Chile es uno de los pocos países del mundo que continúa obteniendo la sal de una forma tan artesanal.
Consiste en varios sectores cuadrados que dividen el agua. Cuando es invierno o llueve aquello se desborda y no se ven los límites que separan los sectores. Entonces, al llegar el buen tiempo, más de 20-25 grados, se abren unas compuertas que están ocultas, y casi toda el agua sobrante sale directa hacia el mar. La que queda retenida es la que se evaporará lentamente, entonces a través de procesos y tratados, se obtiene la sal blanca que se ve luego en montañas sobre tablas de madera. Brilla como si fueran diamantes, ensalza el sabor de lo que comemos, y además está repleta de propiedades beneficiosas. Todo un tesoro.
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ENGLISH
Pichilemu. A place with a funny name. When you hear it for the first time you think: What? What did you say it's called? The second time it sounds familiar and you say: Oh, yes, I've heard about that place. The third time you try to say it yourself, but it doesn't come out and you end up saying something similar like Pichumuchi or Puchimiki. And finally, after several attempts, the name sticks in your mind. That's when you think, "How can I not go visit a place with such an appealing name? That's when you get on a bus that takes you from the capital of the country and takes 3 and a half hours to get there, in Pichilemu, O'Higgins region, Chile.
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Coastal place, with sun and lots and lots of wind. Ideal for sports such as surfing, kitesurfing, windsurfing and all its derivatives. In fact the whole city has that hippie-surfing style of huts, pastel colors and brand stores like Maoui, Reef, Billabong, Northface, ... Its surroundings are long, brown streets with a desert look. You look and see through that filter of dust that is constantly raised between your eyes and what you wanted to focus.
The beaches are spectacular: Infiernillo, Playa de Lobos, Nilahue, etc. Kilometers and kilometers of coastline, and with all that space to choose from, the people were concentrated in a small part. Right in the least appetizing area, where the beach bars, stores, horses for rent and a man walking a white alpaca which he uses as a tourist attraction. Poor animals that can't talk.
Of all the people amassed in that space the people who were bathing could have been counted on the fingers of one hand. And why? Because you have to be a real brave man. The water is clean and turquoise, but also rough and cold. In the middle of summer the temperature is lower than that of the Bay of Biscay in February. The fact that it is so frozen is due to the currents coming from the south, from the Antarctic, so that is the natural state of the sea throughout the year.
About 15 kilometers south of Pichilemu, following the new Comercio street, you arrive to Cáhuil. Town of long avenue, salt and choros shoes. This is where the Ruta de la Sal begins. When you reach the end of the hamlet, the journey begins. It is approximately 4 kilometers of flat road until you begin to see from afar those pink squares with their white mounds. They are like salt water pools, and each one is a different color, depending on the stage of the process in which it is.
One of the owners of those salt pans commented that those strips used to block the water and obtain the salt were already there when he was born. His father affirmed the same, and his grandfather as well. They came to the conclusion that a professor from Cadiz had taught them that technique, and that, to this day, Chile is one of the few countries in the world that continues to obtain salt in such a traditional way.
It consists of several square sectors that divide the water. When it is winter or it rains it overflows and the limits that separate the sectors are not seen. Then, when the good weather arrives, more than 20-25 degrees, some hidden floodgates are opened, and almost all the excess water goes directly to the sea. What is retained is the one that will evaporate slowly, then through processes and treatments, white salt is obtained, which is then seen in mountains on wooden boards. It shines like diamonds, enhances the flavor of what we eat, and is also full of beneficial properties. A real treasure.
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
Imágenes: Propias y de Unsplash
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Muy buena narración de su aventura en la capital del surf en Chile. Saludos.