Excursion to the abandoned village of Fumegai, Arsiè - Discovering Italy with alequandro!
Hello friends! In the mood for exploration, a couple of weeks ago I returned to Arsiè in the province of Belluno.
There is Lake Corlo, which I know quite well but due to time constraints I was unable to visit an abandoned village quite famous in those parts... the abandoned village of Fumegai, I couldn't wait any longer!
ITA
Ciao amici! In vena di esplorazioni, un paio di settimane fa sono tornato ad Arsiè in provincia di Belluno.
Lì c'è il lago di Corlo, che conosco abbastanza bene ma per motivi di tempo non ero riuscito a visitare un borgo abbandonato abbastanza famoso da quelle parti...il borgo abbandonato di Fumegai, non potevo più aspettare!
As soon as I parked the car near the cemetery, I took a look at the landscape and I immediately noticed the strong drought that puts nature to the test even in these parts.
In fact, the lake level is really low!
ITA
Appena parcheggiata l'auto nei pressi del cimitero, ho dato un'occhiata al paesaggio e subito mi sono accorto della forte siccità che mette a dura prova la natura anche da queste parti.
Il livello del lago infatti è davvero basso!
Without wasting time, my friend and I walked along the path...
ITA
Senza perdere tempo io e il mio amico ci siamo incamminati lungo il sentiero...
It wasn't very cold but in the shaded areas there were even ice stalactites.
ITA
Non era molto freddo però nelle zone d'ombra c'erano persino delle stalattiti ti ghiaccio.
This itinerary is always beautiful because thanks to the pedestrian bridges you can enjoy a beautiful view of the lake and the rocky walls.
ITA
Questo itinerario è sempre bello perchè grazie ai ponti pedonali si può godere di una bellissima vista sul lago e le pareti rocciose.
Even the surface of the lake was frozen in the shaded areas..
ITA
Anche la superficie del lago era ghiacciata nelle zone d'ombra...
The atmosphere was great, I was full of energy!
ITA
L'atmosfera era fantastica ero carico di energia!
The path is all uphill and the ground covered with stones and dry leaves, not very easy but without hurry we went up well!
ITA
Il sentiero è tutto in salita e il terreno ricoperto di pietre e foglie secche, non molto agevole ma senza fretta andavamo su bene!
It starts from an altitude of about 300 meters above sea level to arrive at the first village in the fork area at an altitude of 530 meters.
Not much elevation gain but the path has no hairpin bends so it's all quite a steep climb.
ITA
Si parte da un'altitudine di circa 300 metri sul livello del mare per arrivare al primo borgo in zona forcelletta a quota 530 metri.
Non molto dislivello ma il sentiero non presenta tornanti quindi è tutta salita abbastanza ripida.
Every now and then it was a must to stop to catch your breath and take some pictures of the stalactites and the landscape that could be glimpsed through the branches of the trees.
ITA
Ogni tanto era d'obbligo fermarsi per riprendere fiato e con l'occasione fare qualche foto alle stallattiti e al paesaggio che si intravedeva tra i rami degli alberi.
We were finally almost at the Forcelletto, the first horizontal point where you can take a 5-minute break.
ITA
Finalmente eravamo quasi arrivati al Forcelletto, il primo punto orizzontale dove fare una pausa di 5 minuti.
From the Forcelletto the view of Lake Corlo is magnificent, it is always satisfying.
ITA
Dal Forcelletto la vista sul lago di Corlo è magnifica, è sempre appagante.
There is a small village there which is inhabited only in the warm months.
ITA
Lì c'è un piccolo borgo che è abitato solo nei mesi caldi.
Walking in the direction of the Fumegai village, you go down a little bit and after a few minutes you cross another village.
ITA
Camminando in direzione del borgo Fumegai, si scende un pochino di quota e dopo pochi minuti si attraversa un altro borgo.
Finally here is the indication for fumegai! From here on it was all new!
ITA
Finalmente ecco l'indicazione per fumegai! Da qui in poi per era tutto inedito!
The path is gorgeous, narrow with the rock on the left.
The light was great and I was in a really good mood.
ITA
Il sentiero è stupendo, stretto con a sinistra la roccia.
La luce era fantastica ed ero davvero di buon umore.
In some places there were patches of snow...
ITA
In alcuni punti c'erano delle chiazze di neve...
We had arrived, I finally glimpsed the first house in the Fumegai village!
ITA
Eravamo arrivati, finalmente intravedevo la prima casa del borgo Fumegai!
Now the exploration begins!
There is even a well!
ITA
Ora ha inizio l'esplorazione!
C'è anche un pozzo!
All in all, the buildings are still standing, I ventured to visit some interiors...
ITA
Tutto sommato gli edifici stanno ancora in piedi, io mi sono azzardato a visitare qualche interno...
I admit that I was a little tense, I tried to check the condition of the wooden structure well and went inside.
ITA
Ammetto che un po' ero teso, ho cercato di controllare bene le condizioni della struttura in legno e sono entrato.
I calmly climbed the flight of stairs and took some photos of the various rooms.
ITA
Con calma ho salito la rampa di scale e ho scattato qualche foto alle varie stanze.
The village dates back to the early 1900s and life must not have been easy in such an isolated area.
ITA
Il borgo risale ai primi anni del '900 e la vita non dev'essere stata facile in una zona così isolata.
They were a people at one with nature. They themselves were the healers of their illnesses, of their traumas of their wounds.
ITA
Erano un popolo tutt'uno con la natura. Loro stessi erano i curatori delle loro malattie, dei loro traumi delle loro ferite.
Here I visited more or less 5 houses. In others, I didn't feel like risking access.
ITA
Qui ho visitato più o meno 5 case. In altre non me la sentivo di rischiare ad accedere.
The inhabitants were hard workers and famous charcoal burners so much so that due to the so much soot on their skin, the village was specially called Fumegai (smoked)
ITA
Gli abitanti erano dei grandi lavoratori e famosi carbonai tanto che a causa della tanta fuliggine sulla loro pelle, il borgo venne chiamato appositamente Fumegai (affumicati)
Each family had a cow, a goat and a sheep and they produced their own butter and cheese.
ITA
Ogni famiglia aveva una mucca, una capra e una pecora e si produceva il burro e formaggio.
In one room I found some old newspapers, the date was 1983, the newspaper cost 800 lire! The lyre... how nostalgic!
ITA
In una stanza ho trovato dei vecchi giornali, la data era 1983, il giornale costava 800 lire! La lira...che nostalgia!
It was time to go back and to do so we decided to end the excursion by making a round trip.
ITA
Era ora di tornare indietro e per farlo abbiamo deciso di chiudere l'escursione facendo un giro ad anello.
The road was all downhill and easy because it was on asphalt.
In the picture another village we passed through, Borgo Boldi
ITA
La strada era tutta in discesa e agevole pechè era su asfalto.
In foto un 'altro borgo che abbiamo attraversato, il borgo Boldi
The return was fast, we kept a very strong pace and without realizing it between a chat and the other we arrived again at the lake of Corlo.
ITA
Il ritorno è stato veloce, abbiamo tenuto un passo molto sostenuto e senza accorgene tra una chiacchera e l'altra siamo arivati di nuovo al lago di Corlo.
It was really a nice excursion, the visit to the village of Fumegai moved me.
Entering those houses and hearing only the sounds of nature aroused nostalgia, melancholy, fascination and curiosity in me.
It was a nice experience.
ITA
E' stata proprio una bella escursione, la visita al borgo di Fumegai mi ha emozionato.
Entrare in quelle case e sentire solo i suoni della natura, mi ha suscitato nostalgia, malinconia, fascino e curiosità.
E' stata una bella esperienza.
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Wow, you had an amazing adventure hiking to that deserted village.
Looking over your photos also reminded me of the hike I took 4 years ago to a mountain village buried by the tailings of a stone quarry.
But unlike yours which is deserted in the village I visited there lived about 6 families, see I am very curious if those families still live there now, probably in summer I will hike there again, in winter, spring and autumn if the road is not dry to get there you need a 4x4 car.
Thanks for comment! It was nice to visit this village.
A person I met in the city told me that in summer a couple of people live there. It seems absurd to me, but sometimes reality exceeds fantasy.
It's really interesting to see how life would go in a village like this.
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