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I can swim but almost drowned in two feet deep water in Australia. Such power was in those breaking waves one could hardly stand up again. Best is to dive into the wave and get up on the other side. Enjoy the beach! Stay safe!
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Yes me too I feel the death one time ago, fortunately when I said I am here and drowned, I was starting to relaxing and think and see the fluids and directions of the waters, and take a breath and fortunately I am here, yeah the water could be dangerous specially the ocean, nice to know you have this kind of experiences.
Have a great day.