Portofino - A Gray Day's Beauty

The day we spent in the Riviera turned out to be the only day with bad weather during our stay. I can’t imagine how it would have been elsewhere, but I’d likely have been disheartened by such weather in Nice or Cannes. However, Portofino seemed unaffected by the humidity or the overcast sky. Similarly Santa Margherita Ligure, where we enjoyed a pleasant hour strolling while waiting for the tourist boat, wasn’t dampened by the gloomy weather either.

Staying on the deck of the boat was both uncomfortable and pointless. the scenery was obscured by a gray mist. Yet, as the beautiful hills surrounding the narrow yacht passage to Portofino Harbor came into view, the wind and drizzle lost their significance. It felt as though every passenger aboard rushed to the deck simultaneously.

With each new angle, the iconic and endlessly depicted beauty of Portofino, one of the most famous sights of the Italian Riviera, unfolded and glistened before us. The Genoese village, clustered around the harbor, revealed its full elegance. The “front facade” of this splendid scene was undoubtedly Piazza Martiri dell’Olivetta, Portofino’s most well-known and frequented square.

The Piazzetta and the harbor exuded a flawless harmony, creating a seamless whole. It’s no wonder that this view graces countless postcards and souvenirs representing Portofino.

The vivid colors of the buildings surrounding Piazza Martiri dell’Olivetta immediately made us forget the day’s gray skies. As we strolled along Calata Marconi Street, which runs parallel to the harbor, it was hard to resist the idea of sitting at a café or an outdoor table to savor the view.

However, our curiosity led us away from the square, drawing us toward Portofino’s park-museum. Although only a portion of the park was accessible, the bell tower of the nearby San Martino Church caught our eye with its striking presence. This quickly changed our plans and we headed toward the church.

Chiesa di San Martino, Portofino’s largest temple, was built between the 10th and 12th centuries and has become one of the town’s symbols. Though its exterior is simple, the mosaic pavement made of black and white stones stands out. Inside, vibrant frescoes, massive columns and valuable works of art captivate the visitor.

After visiting the church, a narrow path led us to another hill and San Giorgio Church. The view from this spot was stunning. Our journey then took us past Faro di Portofino, one of the town’s symbols and on to Castello Brown.

This four-kilometer walk along Portofino’s enchanting paths allowed us to enjoy not just the town’s center but also its surroundings. On our return, we ended the day with a refreshing coffee at a café in Piazza Martiri dell’Olivetta. Discovering that the iced coffee I ordered resembled the special shakerato I had only tasted in Sicily was an extra delight.

For the best experience view this post on Liketu